Restaurants that have vegetables other than potatoes on the menu are always welcome. That’s especially true if they include legumes, which offer some protein The only problem is that they tend to prepare vegetables with lots of fat, as no one will eat them otherwise.

Witness these two plates from Salumeria Rossi on New York’s Upper West Side. The restaurant’s speciality is mostly Italian meats and cheeses. It’s close by our apartment, and The Restaurant Dieter’s spouse has been eager to try it.

Spotting a caponata and a melange of beans on the menu seemed fortuitous. But what arrived was slathered in oil. Moreover, it was outrageously expensive, even by New York standards. Nine bucks each for a plate of beans and a cup of eggplant?