Field peas, peanuts, charred tomato and pepper salad

For a recent trip to Atlanta’s darling of farm-to-table dining, Miller Union, there were low expectations. The restaurant’s raison d’etre is a close partnership with local farmers and growers. By definition, that means no two-page menu with lots of choices. The kitchen uses what is locally available and cooks what it thinks will sell. The menu is limited and changes often.

This has won Miller Union all manner of foodie accolades, including notice from Bon Appetit, Esquire and the James Beard Foundation.

But previous visits left The Restaurant Dieter unable to bestow an award for those of us counting our Weight Watchers points.

This time, however, there was a pleasant surprise: the menu held two stand-out dishes that were incredibly fresh, faithful to the farm-to-table movement and relatively low in calories and fat.

A salad of crunchy peanuts and al dente field peas was dressed with a light vinaigrette and accented with charred tomato and peppers and a dollop of lemon ricotta on the bottom. Nothing in the dish masked the flavor of those peas, which were indeed fresh.

The selected entree was a low-country boil of shrimp, andouille sausage, tiny new potatoes and peppers. The method of cooking, of course, adds no fat to the dish, save for what’s in the sausage so it was easy to count. Four points for about 5 ounces of shrimp; 2 for a piece of corn on the cob; 2 for 3/4 cup of potatoes; and 7 for about 3 ounces of sausage.

A low country boil, carelessly done, can be a big ugly mash: It’s easy to wind up with lots of the ingredients overcooked — rubbery shrimp, limp corn and masticated potatoes. Not this time. These ingredients may have been cooked together, but a good guess is that they were added sequentially.

Both items are on the current online menu, but the website cautions: “Our online is updated weekly so may differ from the menu in the restaurant.” In other words, if you’re dieting and thinking of going, better to call ahead.

Low country boil