Vegetarian won ton with fresh spinach

 Vegetarian and vegan dining is far from healthy. Tofu and vegetables sound potentially virtuous, but a dish fried in canola oil or sauteed in extra virgin olive oil still drips (often literally) in fat. That glossy sheen is unmistakable.

An awful lot of the food on the menu of Gobo, in the West Village, is likely fattening. Braised tofu, pineapple fried rice, yam fries, crispy spinach and soy cheese wontons; just going down the list makes one think: “Hell, I could just order a Chinese stir fry and be done with it.”

Steamed vegetables with tahini dressing

But the menu is wide, and at least a few items are clearly intended to appeal to the dieter. Take the steamed farm vegetables with tahini dressing or the salt-and-pepper edamame. A meal based on these, with some brown rice on the side, is satisfying indeed. In Weight Watcher points, it was a bargain. A couple of points for the dressing and a couple for a cup of edamame still in their shells.

The item most difficult to assess was a won ton soup. The won tons themselves were meaty, although no meat was used. And the spinach was fresh, barely cooked, from being thrust into a savory (but fortunately not salty) vegetable broth.